Ask your archery shop professionals to tune your bow. A well-tuned bow should shoot broadheads without issue. But if you are still having problems, you can try a few other fixes.
First, make sure your broadheads are spinning true. Use an arrow spinner to spin each arrow with a broadhead mounted. The goal is for the arrows to produce a tight spin without any wobble.
If they wobble, move the broadhead to another arrow and spin it again. Next, evaluate your fletching. If you are shooting small fletching, you might need to use larger fletching or a four-fletch configuration to stabilize your broadhead. Visit a nearby archery shop if you need to buy broadheads, extra blades or have your bow tuned.
You can find a shop near you by clicking, here. By tweaking the orientation of the broadheads it is possible to bring a paper plate size grouping at 60 yards down to a grouping the size of a softball. Because the Ferr-L-Tite heat melt glue is so handy, we did a big no-no and tried it in the carbon arrows.
At first it did not work well at all. Then with the glue melted, the insert was pushed into the end of the shaft. We ruined the ends of about nine arrows before we got the feel for what was too hot and what was not hot enough. Fortunately, we had left the arrows long enough that we could trim the ruined portion off.
We found that you want to get the point just hot enough to melt the glue, if you get it too hot it warps the end of the arrow. So by watching how the glue melted we could gauge how hot the insert was and we installed the inserts in a dozen carbon arrows.
We were pretty proud of ourselves until we started shooting the arrows and the inserts started coming out. So we removed the inserts by heating up the point until the glue melted and trimmed ends off.
Then we used a 7 mm brass gun cleaning brush to rough up the inside of the shaft. After cleaning the points and the inside of the shaft with a q-tip soaked in alcohol or acetone , we glued the inserts back in with the heat melt glue.
That worked pretty well but we were still losing an insert in the target every once and a while. So we removed the inserts again. We melted some extra glue on the insert and scraped the extra melted glue to the inside of shaft. Now when we pushed the insert into the shaft there was some glue there that was re-melted by the hot insert and pushed ahead of the insert.
We take the broadhead out and replace it with a field point that we heat up just enough to cause the glue to melt, then we rotate the insert. By Steve Johnson Spott-Hogg. Your email address will not be published. Good Shooting! About The Author. Steve Johnson. Related Posts. When this happens, assuming the issue isn't the shooter, it is often due to a person's bow not being "in-tune". By "in-tune", we mean that the arrow is not flying straight and consistently out of the bow because one of the variables discussed below is not functioning properly.
It is important to note that you may think your bow is tuned properly because your field points are grouping consistently. But even minor imperfections that may not be apparent with the flight of field points will show up when you put a broadhead on an arrow.
Think of a broadhead like fletchings on the front of the arrow. Any minor imperfection in your bow tune will be vastly magnified with a broadhead on the front, which will necessitate further bow tuning, or as some people call it "broadhead tuning". When we use the term broadhead tuning, we are using it to define the process of tuning your bow to get your broadheads and field points to shoot and group together.
Getting a handle on bad broadhead flight is really a process of elimination. There are a multitude of things that could be causing it, but below are the most common causes for most bow brands and a sequential process for what to check if you are experiencing erratic broadhead flight, or your broadheads are grouping differently than your field points. If your broadhead tipped arrows are not grouping with your field points, the first thing to check should be your cam timing.
Cams control the strings and cables, which all work together to give a bow its draw cycle. This is where your peak draw weight and let off come from. When you release your string, assuming you have a dual cam system , your cams should be rotating in unison. If the two cams are rotating out of sync, it can "throw" your arrow. This is due to either the top or bottom cam being faster than the other, causing the arrow to not fly out of the bow straight.
Checking cam timing is best done by way of a draw board. This gives one the ability to really see the big picture of what's going on. If the draw stops on the cam aren't hitting the cable or limb at the exact same time, it would mean that the cams are out of time. Many of the parts of your bow are dynamic, meaning they can move.
Your strings and cables in particular, stretch over time as you shoot. That stretch will change the timing of your cams, and necessitate you to adjust your timing. There are several ways to adjust your cam timing, which we won't discuss here, but the main point is to get those cams in time for a more consistent shot.
If your arrows are not spined correctly for your draw weight, length and arrow weight, it can cause erratic arrow flight. That erratic arrow flight might not show up when shooting field points, but as we stated earlier, can be dramatically magnified when shooting broadheads.
The spine stiffness has a tremendous effect on how much flex is put upon the arrow on the shot, and your spine will determine how quickly the arrow recovers from that flex.
An arrow that is under spined not stiff enough will tend to hit right. An arrow that is over spined too stiff will usually hit left. Paper tuning can be a big help in diagnosing improper arrow spine. If you're not shooting a perfect bullet hole through paper at a distance you are comfortable with assuming your form is on-point , that tells you that the arrow is not flying straight.
Not getting a perfect bullet hole can be the result of cam timing or your rest not being positioned properly see below for more on that , but if you find yourself getting inconsistent tears through paper i.
Ensuring you have the right spine stiffness is a relatively easy problem to diagnose, but it is critical for consistent broadhead flight. Along with arrow spine, arrow build and how straight your arrow and any inserts or outserts are seated is important.
Spinning arrows on an arrow spinner will shine light on any inconsistencies in straightness that may exist. When you spin an arrow, you are looking for any wobble in the arrow or any of the attachments on your arrow such as any inserts, outserts or nocks.
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